UKC

24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic and one of the hardest HVSs in the Peak for years!
1) 4a, 10m. Climb the grotty gully and cross the slab leftwards to a stance at the foot of the steep crack.
2) 5c, 14m. Jam and layback the crack to a pleasant, seated stance by a plaque that explains the route's name, which surprisingly is nothing to do with it being technical! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Roaches HVS Challenge , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , The List , Michelle's crack ticklist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Hardest E1s on grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Smelly Fox 6 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Desperate. 3 stars tho definitely. The hardest HVS in the peak?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Desperate. 3 stars tho definitely. The hardest HVS in the peak?!
mark s 16 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 4 stars in anyones book.how can this be e1 its safe.why dont more people try this route?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4 stars in anyones book.how can this be e1 its safe.why dont more people try this route?
philhilo 10 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: If this is HVS 5b, then i am a monkeys aunt! Biggest sandbag I know on grit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this is HVS 5b, then i am a monkeys aunt! Biggest sandbag I know on grit.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Encouragement

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)

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