Rockfax Description
10m. The centre of the buttress leads over an overhang to another that caps the wall, and is cleaved by an excellent flake. Finish up this with gusto. A classic E1 experience. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1975.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge , Ultimate E1 ticklist , 3 Star Graded , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ethanhofton | 31 Jul |
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βeta: First move made easier by going for a side pull (not chalked) up and left instead of to the big jug to the right much higher | ||
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βeta: First move made easier by going for a side pull (not chalked) up and left instead of to the big jug to the right much higher |
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| George Frisby | 26 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Size 4 cam in the break on the slab is great, smaller cams a bit uninspiring for the move above | ||
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βeta: Size 4 cam in the break on the slab is great, smaller cams a bit uninspiring for the move above |
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| Col Kingshott | 4 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Hard! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard! |
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| Steve Banham | 11 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: This Route has every thing! A Campus start, rock over dominated centre, and a sloper smear finish, with the physical crux at the start, and a psycological crux near the top. Just trust the sloper at the top (and maybe a toe hook for the win!). Gets better every time. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This Route has every thing! A Campus start, rock over dominated centre, and a sloper smear finish, with the physical crux at the start, and a psycological crux near the top. Just trust the sloper at the top (and maybe a toe hook for the win!). Gets better every time. |
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| SteveM | 18 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A deserved classic with sustained 5b moves interspersed with good rests and gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A deserved classic with sustained 5b moves interspersed with good rests and gear. |
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| Alex Mason | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: every move is 5b. definitive E1 i thought. got to the break a used a size 2 cam in conjunction with a hand placed rock. left rock insitu for others. absolutely great route 4* | ||
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Show beta
βeta: every move is 5b. definitive E1 i thought. got to the break a used a size 2 cam in conjunction with a hand placed rock. left rock insitu for others. absolutely great route 4* |
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| leon | 25 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: the start is hard (felt top end 5b to me). i found moving from the undercut to the top straightforward but (surprisingly)strenuous. tip the middle gear break is far bigger than it looks from the bottom. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: the start is hard (felt top end 5b to me). i found moving from the undercut to the top straightforward but (surprisingly)strenuous. tip the middle gear break is far bigger than it looks from the bottom. |
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| thebigfriendlymoose | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: fun route - the start is very thuggy if tackled direct (5c?) with the upper slab and crack offering a pleasantly balancy contrast (possibly a bit soft for the grade?). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: fun route - the start is very thuggy if tackled direct (5c?) with the upper slab and crack offering a pleasantly balancy contrast (possibly a bit soft for the grade?). |
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| Jus | 24 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: The undercut under the roof was a lot better than I expected. Good route, but not on a par with Commander Energy for example. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The undercut under the roof was a lot better than I expected. Good route, but not on a par with Commander Energy for example. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 12 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: A route with something for everyone! A strong, bouldery start, a balancy slabby middle section and a layback crack to finish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A route with something for everyone! A strong, bouldery start, a balancy slabby middle section and a layback crack to finish. |
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| withey | 20 May, 2003 |
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βeta: And preferably not seconded by someone who has never been climbing outside properly before yes Rob?!!! It took me a while longer than it would do today. | βeta? | |
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βeta: And preferably not seconded by someone who has never been climbing outside properly before yes Rob?!!! It took me a while longer than it would do today. |
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| Robo | 14 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Mm...what a route. Best done on a hot sunny day with your shirt off, so all the crowds of top-ropers and ramblers can marvel at your athleticism and skill. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Mm...what a route. Best done on a hot sunny day with your shirt off, so all the crowds of top-ropers and ramblers can marvel at your athleticism and skill. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Skyline
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Encouragement
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)