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30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic trip weaving its way up the impressive buttress.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the left-hands side of Hollybush Gully and move out left and climb a groove to its top, step left across the side-wall then mantelshelf onto a small stance.
2) 4a, 16m. Continue up the groove then step left and tackle the bulges by a trio of awkward, and poorly-protected semi-mantelshelves, mild but bold. It is also possible to start up Jeffcoat's Chimney then follow ledges rightwards via a long traverse to the base of the groove, at about the same grade. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott 1922.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, World Graded List, Roaches w sobote? :), Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, On Peak Rock, The Gritlist, Beginner Peak Severe, The Roaches - The First Ten, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Richard Bradley 26 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Not hard but a great and varied way to spend an hour. Don't forget to extend some runners otherwise the rope drag is the crux!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Not hard but a great and varied way to spend an hour. Don't forget to extend some runners otherwise the rope drag is the crux!
Jamie B 3 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: VDiff in my opinion. No discernable crux and the top bold section is about Diff technicaly. Easier than Black Velvet but still a great adventure for a beginner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VDiff in my opinion. No discernable crux and the top bold section is about Diff technicaly. Easier than Black Velvet but still a great adventure for a beginner.
El Greyo 20 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best route at this grade on gritstone. Superb exposure near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best route at this grade on gritstone. Superb exposure near the top.

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 248
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 233
Votes cast 247
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black Velvet

Grade: S 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)