Rockfax Description
An exciting expedition up an unlikely line at the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb into the crack with difficulty (might even be 5a) then follow it to a ledge, before moving left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 18m. Take the wall to a good ledge then the groove to the final imposing overhang. Fortunately this has massive jugs. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood 1922.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Roaches w sobote? :) , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Bouldering cracks , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Beginner Peak Severe , The Roaches - The First Ten , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Peaky
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quintinia | 26 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit silly to call this a 2-pitch route as you could easily scramble to the base of the second pitch, and to link the two involves either an unroped scramble traverse across the ledge (like we did) or the worst rope drag you've ever seen in your life. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bit silly to call this a 2-pitch route as you could easily scramble to the base of the second pitch, and to link the two involves either an unroped scramble traverse across the ledge (like we did) or the worst rope drag you've ever seen in your life. |
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| Amberrosebrown | 11 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lead the fun first pitch, ballsy last pitch- Anna took a big whip but sent it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lead the fun first pitch, ballsy last pitch- Anna took a big whip but sent it |
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| smoreda | 9 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Grading pitch 2 as 4a is misleading. Once under the "imposing overhang" if you don't have the right piece of gear that protects it and/or you don't find the "hidden" hold, you'll be sitting under it with the giggles until dusk. Still, having those two factors with you, it requires commitment and, in my opinion, it's technically harder than 4a any day. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Grading pitch 2 as 4a is misleading. Once under the "imposing overhang" if you don't have the right piece of gear that protects it and/or you don't find the "hidden" hold, you'll be sitting under it with the giggles until dusk. Still, having those two factors with you, it requires commitment and, in my opinion, it's technically harder than 4a any day. |
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| Johnathan | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: All the start footholds are so polished that it\'s become really really hard to start. After five minutes I gave up on all the low footholds and positions I could find and opted for an above my head heel hook on the starting handholds, and rocking over into a leanback in the crack. Pretty sure there\'s an easier way to do it that I missed. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: All the start footholds are so polished that it's become really really hard to start. After five minutes I gave up on all the low footholds and positions I could find and opted for an above my head heel hook on the starting handholds, and rocking over into a leanback in the crack. Pretty sure there's an easier way to do it that I missed. |
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| Stefan Kruger | 6 Feb, 2003 |
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βeta: It's one of my favourite grit Severes - the well-protected hard bit is getting off the deck, the rest is an absolute delight. Keep it at Severe, I'd say. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's one of my favourite grit Severes - the well-protected hard bit is getting off the deck, the rest is an absolute delight. Keep it at Severe, I'd say. |
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| Swirly | 22 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looks a lovely route but the start is pure evil having been spat out two days in a row. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Looks a lovely route but the start is pure evil having been spat out two days in a row. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
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Jeffcoat's Buttress
Grade: HS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)