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38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exciting expedition up an unlikely line at the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb into the crack with difficulty (might even be 5a) then follow it to a ledge, before moving left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 18m. Take the wall to a good ledge then the groove to the final imposing overhang. Fortunately this has massive jugs. © Rockfax

FA. Morley Wood 1922.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :), Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Bouldering cracks, On Peak Rock, The Gritlist, Beginner Peak Severe, The Roaches - The First Ten, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
smoreda 9 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Grading pitch 2 as 4a is misleading. Once under the "imposing overhang" if you don't have the right piece of gear that protects it and/or you don't find the "hidden" hold, you'll be sitting under it with the giggles until dusk. Still, having those two factors with you, it requires commitment and, in my opinion, it's technically harder than 4a any day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grading pitch 2 as 4a is misleading. Once under the "imposing overhang" if you don't have the right piece of gear that protects it and/or you don't find the "hidden" hold, you'll be sitting under it with the giggles until dusk. Still, having those two factors with you, it requires commitment and, in my opinion, it's technically harder than 4a any day.
Johnathan 26 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: All the start footholds are so polished that it's become really really hard to start. After five minutes I gave up on all the low footholds and positions I could find and opted for an above my head heel hook on the starting handholds, and rocking over into a leanback in the crack. Pretty sure there's an easier way to do it that I missed.
 
Show beta
βeta: All the start footholds are so polished that it's become really really hard to start. After five minutes I gave up on all the low footholds and positions I could find and opted for an above my head heel hook on the starting handholds, and rocking over into a leanback in the crack. Pretty sure there's an easier way to do it that I missed.
Goose Fat 23 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: did this years ago. used to be a favourite of mine. remember something about a big hidden pocket in the wide crack below the final overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this years ago. used to be a favourite of mine. remember something about a big hidden pocket in the wide crack below the final overhang.
Stefan Kruger 6 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's one of my favourite grit Severes - the well-protected hard bit is getting off the deck, the rest is an absolute delight. Keep it at Severe, I'd say.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's one of my favourite grit Severes - the well-protected hard bit is getting off the deck, the rest is an absolute delight. Keep it at Severe, I'd say.
Swirly 22 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Looks a lovely route but the start is pure evil having been spat out two days in a row.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks a lovely route but the start is pure evil having been spat out two days in a row.

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Votes cast 143
High 5a
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Votes cast 158
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Technical Slab

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)