UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The large triangular overhang is a bit of a one-move-wonder. Fix runners to left and right (or better - don't bother) then cross the flakes rightwards to hard moves round the lip and an anticlimactic finish. Low in both grades. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Gibson 1979.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush

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User Date Notes
Daniel Grout 18 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Absolute bargain at E4, more like E2. Cut loose is totally awesome
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βeta: Absolute bargain at E4, more like E2. Cut loose is totally awesome
robert mirfin 9 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Yes I couldn`t understand why people do all that faffing with runners halfway up other routes? the cams are fine in the flakes on the left. Still think E4 5c is the right grade wouldn`t want to fall off from the lip
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βeta: Yes I couldn`t understand why people do all that faffing with runners halfway up other routes? the cams are fine in the flakes on the left. Still think E4 5c is the right grade wouldn`t want to fall off from the lip
Fiend 7 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Gear in Bachelor's Buttress is not needed - there are perfect small cams in deep, solid flakes at the start of the roof climbing. Done this way it makes an easy E3. In fact one should really miss out faffing around with gear in Sauls, and it would still be (slightly stiffer) E3. Now that's cleared up, this is a pretty cool climb on great holds, with fun campussing opportunities. Neither a one move wonder, nor is the lip any harder than the rest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear in Bachelor's Buttress is not needed - there are perfect small cams in deep, solid flakes at the start of the roof climbing. Done this way it makes an easy E3. In fact one should really miss out faffing around with gear in Sauls, and it would still be (slightly stiffer) E3. Now that's cleared up, this is a pretty cool climb on great holds, with fun campussing opportunities. Neither a one move wonder, nor is the lip any harder than the rest.
mark s 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: agree with tom.more like e3 5b.
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βeta: agree with tom.more like e3 5b.

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
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Route of Interest

Traveller in Time

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Ramshaw Rocks)
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