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18m.

Rockfax Description
18m. Low in the grade but serious and with a bold finale. Once thought to be, "only suitable for married men and others accustomed to taking risks". Climb the slab to the left edge of the overhang. Move up then trend back right crossing the side-wall on polished holds to the airy arete and a finish up a short crack. It is also possible to climb the side-wall direct until an awkward move reaches holds and gear, at a more normal HVS. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Pigott 1913.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Roaches HVS Challenge, The V.S.+ Ticklist, The Roaches - The First Ten

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andrew Barker 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very green, the direct appeared to be even more slimey so I took the original line. Protection was poor until I reached a perfect nut about four moves from the right edge of the face, but by then it's pretty much in the bag anyway. Not difficult, but not one to underestimate either.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very green, the direct appeared to be even more slimey so I took the original line. Protection was poor until I reached a perfect nut about four moves from the right edge of the face, but by then it's pretty much in the bag anyway. Not difficult, but not one to underestimate either.
Offwidth 7 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Try to stay high and left after the fist mantel: there are runners and better holds and you can check out where the direct shoots off. Standard VS 4b climbing if done this way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Try to stay high and left after the fist mantel: there are runners and better holds and you can check out where the direct shoots off. Standard VS 4b climbing if done this way.
Chris the Tall 15 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Rather than completely avoiding the overhang, if you step across to it you can get a friend in, then pull back across to to the left and up. 4c but protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rather than completely avoiding the overhang, if you step across to it you can get a friend in, then pull back across to to the left and up. 4c but protected.
MJS 12 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing isn't hard for VS it's just very bold. You can get one good nut in at the start of the traverse. Historically it was 2 pitches with your belayer in the groove to the left before the traverse, no safer but at least you wouldn't crush your belayer on the way down!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing isn't hard for VS it's just very bold. You can get one good nut in at the start of the traverse. Historically it was 2 pitches with your belayer in the groove to the left before the traverse, no safer but at least you wouldn't crush your belayer on the way down!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 98
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Rubberneck

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Five Clouds)