Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
Make hard bouldery moves up the face and short crack to finish on pockets. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Hard start to a reachy finish and a very nasty landing. The only gear is above the main difficulties. From the left hand side of the face (around the arete from Tregagle's Buttress), pull up into the short crack on the right and finish up the pockets above.
Tom Newberry 08/Jun/2006.
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Tough Teacher
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Predannack Head Area)