Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
Well-protected but tough crack climbing. Start below the fist size crack in the buttress on the left of the face. The crack can be laced with good gear but the ascent is still a good test of jamming especially the first few metres. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An awkward entry into the crack which eases with height.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Fav Southern(ish) Cracks
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Jamesvickery19 | 2 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: birds nest halfway up as of 2/10/24 | βeta? | |
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βeta: birds nest halfway up as of 2/10/24 |
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| BuzyG | 22 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: The start is the crux. Once into the crack it is a nice straight forward climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start is the crux. Once into the crack it is a nice straight forward climb |
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| rccurrie | 10 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice wee S, do this to de-slug yourself | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice wee S, do this to de-slug yourself |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roche Rock
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Pendulum Chimney
Grade: S 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)