Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
The squat slab is a micro-classic friction problem. Start below the thin right-curving seam. Move up to the seam and climb the slab just on its left to meet a wide horizontal break. Reach a jutting ledge in the bulging wall above and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Up the slab to a small groove, then pull up and mantel to a standing position on the face before finishing direct. Long overgraded at E1 5b, now downgraded to HVS 5a in line with the comprehensive guide. Well protected with micros.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Top 25 E Grades in the south west , Most Popular First E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BuzyG | 2 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 02/09/22. Finally made it up the slab. Say what you like about the grade, that is an E1 bagged. :) Tried this again 04/09/21. Got further than last time, but still not enough grip high on the slab for my feet. :( Cleared the gorse bushes from the top section of the climb. So a good day anyway. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 02/09/22. Finally made it up the slab. Say what you like about the grade, that is an E1 bagged. :) Tried this again 04/09/21. Got further than last time, but still not enough grip high on the slab for my feet. :( Cleared the gorse bushes from the top section of the climb. So a good day anyway. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roche Rock
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Bishop's Rib
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chair Ladder)