Rockfax Description
(East Ridge) The eastern summit of Rulten climbed by the east ridge is one of Lofoten's best and most historic mountaineering routes. From the farm at Reknes, climb up to a col just to the west of Lille Rulten or Trehakkatinden, the prominent, triple-summited peak which forms the lower part of the mountain's east ridge. Climb up grassy slopes for a short way up the ridge until forced left by slabs, moving left into a gully. At the top of the gully, move northwest up the ridge, staying on or near the ridge crest. Climb several short interesting rock pitches, with grass slopes, ledges, and a small cave. Cross a notch then climb a 40m V-groove up the ridge itself. A short steep pitch on good holds leads to another cave. Climb carefully up a 100m gully to a large depression in the ridge. The final pinnacle is below the summit just beyond and is bypassed by a traverse south. A subsidiary ridge runs south from the pinnacle. Cross the depression to its west below the final pinnacle. Descend 20m on steep grass slopes, then curve left up grassy rock for 80m and climb over the subsidiary ridge, well below its highest point - take the easiest line through here. Descend 100m down the west side of the subsidiary south ridge, heading diagonally right into a green gully and making for a long gully (may contain snow). Either go up the snow gully towards the final gap, or traverse cracks in the rock slabs above and to the east of the snow gully to a point 20m below the final gap. Cross the snow gully, then continue up mossy slopes between slabs on the east side of the main south ridge into a gully which leads to the last rock wall below the summit. This final wall is split by two chimney cracks 10m apart. Climb the left chimney to the top in two pitches, or step right onto the exposed north wall into another chimney (N5-) which leads to the top. Another easier finish avoids the chimneys altogether by descending the final couloir below the summit, finishing up the main south ridge.
Time - 8 to 9 hours up, 4 to 5 hours down. © Rockfax

FA. W. Cecil Slingsby, J.Norman Collie, H.S.Mundahl, D.Northall-Laurie 17.8.1903 17/Aug/1903.

Ticklists

Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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