UKC Logbook - 'Blue Sky'

56m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 25m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , 2020/21 Trips , 33 By 33 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

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User	Date		Notes
Kiddie68	5 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Wow! Staring up the second pitch cracks and what looks like the incredibly steep grove above, you wonder if you’ve got the route description right? But it goes, and is the most outrageous fantastic VS pitch anywhere! A scary lead for any VS leader but so worth it. First pitch from high tide belay was quite bold, up a rockfall scar, before disappearing around to the right onto the sharp juggy wall. Again, must be quite intimidating for a VS leader.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Wow! Staring up the second pitch cracks and what looks like the incredibly steep grove above, you wonder if you’ve got the route description right? But it goes, and is the most outrageous fantastic VS pitch anywhere! A scary lead for any VS leader but so worth it. First pitch from high tide belay was quite bold, up a rockfall scar, before disappearing around to the right onto the sharp juggy wall. Again, must be quite intimidating for a VS leader.
Siongethinhill	25 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove.
eldre070	21 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon.
Show beta βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon.
neuromancer	25 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58?
Alun	10 Apr, 2007	Show βeta βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Show beta βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Furzy Sleight	23 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
Kyuzo	26 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
geoffgo21	13 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
Haggis	23 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
Furzy Sleight	8 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype	βeta?
Show beta βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype
shaun walby	21 Feb, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
john horscroft	21 Feb, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.