Rockfax Description
A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 28m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, The Best of Pembroke, Orange Spot Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke, 2020/21 Trips, 31 By 31, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| eldre070 | 21 Sep |
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βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon. | ||
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βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon. |
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| neuromancer | 25 Aug |
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βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58? |
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| Alun | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure! | ||
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βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 23 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now. |
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| Kyuzo | 26 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea. |
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| geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea! |
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| Haggis | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 8 May, 2005 |
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βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype | βeta? | |
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βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype |
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| shaun walby | 21 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem. |
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| john horscroft | 21 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best. |
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Logged Ascents
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Lydstep Traverse
Grade: VS ***(Lydstep Point Area)