A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 25m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.
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