Rockfax Description
A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 25m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , 2020/21 Trips , 31 By 31 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Siongethinhill | 25 Apr |
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βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ab from the old spike backed up with gear at the top of the smooth v shaped groove. |
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| eldre070 | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon. | ||
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βeta: Do it. It’s amazing. One pitch is best I reckon. |
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| neuromancer | 25 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not convinced by the pitch lengths in rockfax. Only used 40m of rope, but guide says 58? |
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| Alun | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure! | ||
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βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 23 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now. |
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| Kyuzo | 26 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea. |
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| geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea! |
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| Haggis | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 8 May, 2005 |
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βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype | βeta? | |
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βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype |
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| shaun walby | 21 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem. |
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| john horscroft | 21 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Saddle Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Armorican
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Caerfai Bay)