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56m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 28m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, The Best of Pembroke, Orange Spot Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke, 2020 Trips

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User Date Notes
Alun 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
 
Show beta
βeta: The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Furzy Sleight 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
βeta?
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βeta: The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
βeta?
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βeta: Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
Haggis 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
Furzy Sleight 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wonderful route - worth the hype
shaun walby 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
βeta?
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βeta: Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
john horscroft 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.

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High HS
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Votes cast 138
High 4c
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 135
Votes cast 138
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
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DNF
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Route of Interest

Lydstep Traverse

Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)