Restricted Access
Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb to the left of the ever-popular Blue Sky making the most of the steep rock to the left of its upper section.
1) 5a, 25m. Start as for Blue Sky but continue leftwards up the long groove to a ledge and superb cave belay.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb direct up a short groove then move left into a long diagonal groove which is easy at first but becomes harder near the top where some barn-door moves gain easier ground left of the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. J.Harwood, M.Rhodes 01/Mar/1980.
Ticklists
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , All the climbs UKC said I should do South Wales TM
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| slowmotion | 15 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: CC picture topo incorrect for pitch 1. Start up blue sky and then go left up corner and cracked wall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: CC picture topo incorrect for pitch 1. Start up blue sky and then go left up corner and cracked wall. |
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| Tombennett85 | 18 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: I’m not sure if anyone really knows which line to take, just pick one and go for it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I’m not sure if anyone really knows which line to take, just pick one and go for it |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Saddle Head
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Welcome to the Cruise
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)