Restricted Access
Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand side of the slab by a series of mantelshelves then finish easily up the headwall above. Swapped with the next route in other guides. © Rockfax
FA. D.Jones (solo) 16/Apr/1981.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Mountain Goat | 16 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the previous comment about the line, any further left and your on "Breaking Wind" which has a start far too hard to be 5a. The line felt a bit artificial far too easy to move right to easy ground if necessary. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with the previous comment about the line, any further left and your on "Breaking Wind" which has a start far too hard to be 5a. The line felt a bit artificial far too easy to move right to easy ground if necessary. |
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| O. C. Curmudgeon | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think I've made some sense of the 2 routes on the slab from the definitive guide. Breaking Wind (E1 5b) goes up the slab directly above the cave - this is the line marked as Sunset Boulevard in the Rockfax topo. Sunset Boulevard (HVS 5a) which is described as "a series of mantleshelf moves" I think goes up the left of the slab just right of the arete - even though the definitive guide says climb the centre of the slab! Hope that makes sense. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I think I've made some sense of the 2 routes on the slab from the definitive guide. Breaking Wind (E1 5b) goes up the slab directly above the cave - this is the line marked as Sunset Boulevard in the Rockfax topo. Sunset Boulevard (HVS 5a) which is described as "a series of mantleshelf moves" I think goes up the left of the slab just right of the arete - even though the definitive guide says climb the centre of the slab! Hope that makes sense. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Saddle Head
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Sunny Corner
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bosherston Head)