An excellent and super-classic route following the prominent crack that splits the right-hand side of the face. The crux is polished but a couple of fixed pegs and a single bolt ease the psychological commitment.
Start at a grassy ramp left of the distinct main crack.
1) III, 30m. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack.
2) IV, 30m. Climb the slightly right-trending crack to a small ledge on the right.
3) V+, 30m. Climb the continuation crack, passing a steeper polished section (pegs and bolt protect), until a good belay is reached on a ledge.
4) III+, 30m. Continue up the crack on easier ground.
5) III, 30m. Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Alternatively, continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge - same grade. Belay on the right of this directly under a chimney.
6) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney to the top and the descent path. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious corner on the south-west face. 5 pitches - IV-,V,IV,IV-,IV-, the crux is well protected, but exhilarating and strenous, particularly given the altitude
Trenker & Pescosta 1913.
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