UKC

5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and super-classic route following the prominent crack that splits the right-hand side of the face. The crux is polished but a couple of fixed pegs and a single bolt ease the psychological commitment.
Start at a grassy ramp left of the distinct main crack.
1) III, 30m. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack.
2) IV, 30m. Climb the slightly right-trending crack to a small ledge on the right.
3) V+, 30m. Climb the continuation crack, passing a steeper polished section (pegs and bolt protect), until a good belay is reached on a ledge.
4) III+, 30m. Continue up the crack on easier ground.
5) III, 30m. Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Alternatively, continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge - same grade. Belay on the right of this directly under a chimney.
6) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney to the top and the descent path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious corner on the south-west face. 5 pitches - IV-,V,IV,IV-,IV-, the crux is well protected, but exhilarating and strenous, particularly given the altitude

Trenker & Pescosta 1913.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch

Feedback

User Date Notes
malcolm.harris 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. The line is ok in the 2014 rockfax book but some anchor points are marked incorrectly on the topo. The "P2" anchor is where the line goes over to the right before traversing back in for the crux. P3&4 anchors ok (both are also bolted). Make P5 anchor right at the base of the final corner (slings). P1 is not grade III, don't think anyone uses a rope for this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. The line is ok in the 2014 rockfax book but some anchor points are marked incorrectly on the topo. The "P2" anchor is where the line goes over to the right before traversing back in for the crux. P3&4 anchors ok (both are also bolted). Make P5 anchor right at the base of the final corner (slings). P1 is not grade III, don't think anyone uses a rope for this.
afshapes 5 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax descriptions way out, 1st pitch more of a scramble, didn't even know we had done it. 2nd pitch v and good, 3rd and 4th IV and over 60m , 5th pitch 20m not 40 and only III+ . Not really worth 3 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax descriptions way out, 1st pitch more of a scramble, didn't even know we had done it. 2nd pitch v and good, 3rd and 4th IV and over 60m , 5th pitch 20m not 40 and only III+ . Not really worth 3 stars

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spigolo Soraro

Grade: V+ ***
(Moiazza)

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