UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.

16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.

03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.

I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.

It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris.  Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx.  No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock.

Update to follow once area has been investigated. 

Rockfax Description
The vertical, well defined corner is a fine line that is hard in its lower reaches. Climb the initially difficult corner and either finish up the top pitch of Brown Slabs Arete, or abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Worth e1 for first bit,once around the bulge it's about (H)VS. Top quality route on a stunning line.

USBRIT writes: On the first ascent Ross led it in Gimmer hiking boots as the Woolworth two shillings and six pence gym shoes were not great on the small sharp holds.Apart from pulling out clumps of heather on abseil the climb was led on sight.The only protection was one piton just above the crux.The crack below the crux was too big for the available pitons of that time.

paul ross,p whitwell 02/Oct/1955.

Ticklists

Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , My List , Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland E1 Classics , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , UK Trad , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Thank god it eases off after the first bit. Good gear and enjoyable climbing. Sweat dripping off my nose most of the way up!
Show beta
βeta: Thank god it eases off after the first bit. Good gear and enjoyable climbing. Sweat dripping off my nose most of the way up!
C Witter 5 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A compelling line. The two in situ nuts mentioned in previous comments are shot: rusted wires have snapped. Can be done as one pitch to the top. I feel it's fair and sustained at E1 - not soft. There are easier, as well as harder, routes at the grade. But, great gear and rests between harder sequences make it a good first Lakes E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A compelling line. The two in situ nuts mentioned in previous comments are shot: rusted wires have snapped. Can be done as one pitch to the top. I feel it's fair and sustained at E1 - not soft. There are easier, as well as harder, routes at the grade. But, great gear and rests between harder sequences make it a good first Lakes E1.
Jon Tweedlie 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fixed pieces may as well be bolts as they are so good. Also don’t do the garbage 2nd pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fixed pieces may as well be bolts as they are so good. Also don’t do the garbage 2nd pitch.
Christabel Goode 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Probably good to do in 2 pitches not 1 (pair in front of us did in 1 and regretted it because of the rope drag)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably good to do in 2 pitches not 1 (pair in front of us did in 1 and regretted it because of the rope drag)

Logged Ascents

1035 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 163
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aah! Wisto

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wistow Crags)

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