UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.

16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.

03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.

I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.

It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris.  Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx.  No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock.

Update to follow once area has been investigated. 

Rockfax Description
An intricate line combined with superb positions and rock. The second pitch is bold. Start at a small slab that is below a crack with a twisted tree root in it.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb the slab and crack to a stance.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the groove left of the black corner and after 5m, as it narrows, move left around the arete to a slab. Climb diagonally up left (little protection) to a belay on the edge of the slab at an overlap.
3) 4b, 20m. Move up the overlaps on the arete and then head rightwards up a crack-line to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , UK Lonely Leads , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A very enjoyable route, with a range of gear available on p.2 for those who have a good range of gear on their rack. I got a three-piece nest before following the good holds left and up to the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very enjoyable route, with a range of gear available on p.2 for those who have a good range of gear on their rack. I got a three-piece nest before following the good holds left and up to the belay.
bigredsquirrel 1 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 looked damp, but above the first stance it looked dry enough. How wrong we were! P2 (the traverse) was greasy and horrible! P3 not so bad if slightly damp. Would be much easier if fully dry!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 looked damp, but above the first stance it looked dry enough. How wrong we were! P2 (the traverse) was greasy and horrible! P3 not so bad if slightly damp. Would be much easier if fully dry!
1-2-3-40 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Micro cams protect the traverse pitch 2, and look left for a red cam placement for the wall to the belay.
Show beta
βeta: Micro cams protect the traverse pitch 2, and look left for a red cam placement for the wall to the belay.
sam_owen41 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Slab on second pitch is thin on gear
Show beta
βeta: Slab on second pitch is thin on gear
Lucylou19 23 Jun, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: led pitch 1 and 2. pitch 2 would be bold without a 00 cam as soon as you step out of the groove (virtually). Traverse takes a no 2 nut which may protect a lead fall but makes the second a lot safer. felt cruisy tho, stoke!
Show beta
βeta: led pitch 1 and 2. pitch 2 would be bold without a 00 cam as soon as you step out of the groove (virtually). Traverse takes a no 2 nut which may protect a lead fall but makes the second a lot safer. felt cruisy tho, stoke!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 170
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 161
Votes cast 153
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
North West Arete

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Gimmer Crag)

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