UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

20m.

Rockfax Description
Get established on a low ledge and then on a larger ledge 3m above. Go up left to gain ledges under a thin crack. Climb the crack to a corner and then finish on the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts a little left of Temporary Truce at the foot of a fallen tree.

Climb up onto the good ledge just behind the tree. From here climb up and left bodly (or place gear out right in the crack of Temporary Truce if you prefer) until you reach the thin upper crack. Climb the upper crack with some difficuly but on good gear until you reach a muddy ledge and in situ rings behind.

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Laughing Cavaliers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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