UKC

Rockfax Description
Follow Dictator to the ledges under the crack. Move 2m right round a shallow rib and climb the wall to small overhangs. Move left to a small right-facing corner which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is to the left of Organ grinder, and shares a start with Temporary truce (VS 4c). Climb to the low ledge, then move up and left on rock with few features. Follow a thin crack up until a you are both a few meters below (and to the left of) the obvious overhang at the top of the route. Here, you deviate from the line of Dictator (HVS 5a, which continues straight up), by stepping right around the arete, and ascending the slight overhang.

Note: This route is believed to be either a very soft E1 or High HVS, with good gear all the way

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
George Hughes 11 May Show βeta
βeta: Big loose block at the top wobbles alarmingly! Pulled on it gently before realising and decided better. Take care.
Show beta
βeta: Big loose block at the top wobbles alarmingly! Pulled on it gently before realising and decided better. Take care.
SimeonB 19 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Noticed the previously mentioned loose block while abseiling. It is pretty big and moves a lot! Take care below this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Noticed the previously mentioned loose block while abseiling. It is pretty big and moves a lot! Take care below this.
Longsufferingropeholder 2 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose block near the top. It won't come out without a crowbar but it does move alarmingly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big loose block near the top. It won't come out without a crowbar but it does move alarmingly.

Logged Ascents

227 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tigers Don't Cry

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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