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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Follow Dictator to the ledges under the crack. Move 2m right round a shallow rib and climb the wall to small overhangs. Move left to a small right-facing corner which is followed to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route is to the left of Organ grinder, and shares a start with Temporary truce (VS 4c). Climb to the low ledge, then move up and left on rock with few features. Follow a thin crack up until a you are both a few meters below (and to the left of) the obvious overhang at the top of the route. Here, you deviate from the line of Dictator (HVS 5a, which continues straight up), by stepping right around the arete, and ascending the slight overhang.
Note: This route is believed to be either a very soft E1 or High HVS, with good gear all the way
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Mahon | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A lovely E1 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A lovely E1 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Tigers Don't Cry
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)