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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Long, varied and sustained. Start 1m left of the large tree that stands against the base of the crag. A slim groove is followed to a step left onto a short slab at 5m. Move rightwards and over an overlap onto a wall (just down and left of a tree). Now gain the narrow right-facing corner and take this to flakes. Climb up left and then rightwards to a thread in a concretion before finishing direct to trees and a belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgT 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Contradicting to the comments below, we abbed off fine on the double cord around the ab tree. Metal ring seemed fine as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Contradicting to the comments below, we abbed off fine on the double cord around the ab tree. Metal ring seemed fine as well.
Tom Brierley 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil ring is currently not safe to use. The single rope sling is looking worse for ware and critically one end has frayed right up to the start of the double fisherman. Use the tree directly instead, until more rope slings are added.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil ring is currently not safe to use. The single rope sling is looking worse for ware and critically one end has frayed right up to the start of the double fisherman. Use the tree directly instead, until more rope slings are added.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Kong

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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