UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
A good, varied climb that can be well-protected. Start on the left of the pinnacle and climb up to the bottom of a large corner. Fine climbing up the corner and flake reach a tree and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the left of the detached pinnacle, the route starts just behind the pinnacle itself and climbs the left hand corner to a small tree. Bridge between the pinnacle and the corner until you join the groove, layback the solid flake and climb the final corner to the belay tree (abseil tat in place). Good gear throughout.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
teebee1805 6 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lower off tat removed as the tree is getting quite poor & damaged. better to scramble up left (easy) and use new lower off on Side Effects.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower off tat removed as the tree is getting quite poor & damaged. better to scramble up left (easy) and use new lower off on Side Effects.
Quarryboy 29 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There are currently nesting birds on this route, would not recommend doing it at the moment for this reason.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are currently nesting birds on this route, would not recommend doing it at the moment for this reason.

Logged Ascents

613 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 76
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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