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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Follow Social Criticism to below the overhang. Move up and right to a thin crack just right of the arete. Climb this until a move left can be made to grooves in the face. Follow these, and the arete right of the overhang, to the large tree and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Loose blocks from middle of the route trundled on 11/8/12. Leaves a large resting ledge at half height. Probably no change in grade


Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Motion Pictures

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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