UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
A combo of The Laughing Cavaliers and Bitter Battle Tears makes an excellent route. Climb Laughing Cavaliers until a ledge where the angle relents, then trend left to meet Bitter Battle Tears at the small pillar. Finish as for Bitter Battle Tears. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A combination of the lower half of Laughing Cavaliers and the upper section of Bitter Battle Tears is also an excellent route. Often climbed after getting lost on Laughing Cavaliers as the guide book is less than clear on the line.

Climb Laughing Cavaliers until the ledge where the angle relents, trend left to the Bitter Battle Tears pedestal, traverse left around it and mount the pedestal. Climb almost directly to the top out tree with in situ belay tat.

unknown.

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Laughing Cavaliers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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