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28m. The routes starts at the rightmost of the two corners in the middle of the wall, as shown in the picture in the guide book. Climb to the break in angle and aim slightly rightwards towards the downward-pointing tree branch, where the downward-pointing flake is visible, looking like a loose block from the bottom. The thread is on a ledge below this, which can also be clipped from No Muskateers before it traverses off rightwards.

From here, the leftward trending line of flakes is visible, and the final flake is the obvious highest point of rock above.

G. Gibson, M. Ward 03/Jun/1984.

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Best slab climbs of the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Orange Spot Lower Wye, Ultimate HVS ticklist, CUMC Ticklist, Shorn Cliff Nose, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS), 2020 Trips

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User Date Notes
Michael Hellyer 25 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Take care with the downward facing flake. I placed a cam underside and it moved when I gave it a light pull. I completely avoided the flake in the end.
βeta?
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βeta: Take care with the downward facing flake. I placed a cam underside and it moved when I gave it a light pull. I completely avoided the flake in the end.
watson23 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose/hollow sounding block near the top of this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose/hollow sounding block near the top of this
George Geo 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Download the climber's club additional topo pdf file, LWVPDS.pdf which contains all the topos, as the main book hatd no topos. The descriptions are a bit confusing and could send you the wrong way. I found 3 threads and only one juggy flake!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Download the climber's club additional topo pdf file, LWVPDS.pdf which contains all the topos, as the main book hatd no topos. The descriptions are a bit confusing and could send you the wrong way. I found 3 threads and only one juggy flake!

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Red Rose Speedway

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)