Rockfax Description
A fine sustained pitch on superb rock. Start on a boulder at the base of a slim corner. Climb the corner and then head slightly left to slabby ground. Go up to the right of an overlap and once past it (thread), go leftwards to a flake. Climb up the wall and flakes above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The routes starts at the rightmost of the two corners in the middle of the wall, as shown in the picture in the guide book. Climb to the break in angle and aim slightly rightwards towards the downward-pointing tree branch, where the downward-pointing flake is visible, looking like a loose block from the bottom. The thread is on a ledge below this, which can also be clipped from No Muskateers before it traverses off rightwards.

From here, the leftward trending line of flakes is visible, and the final flake is the obvious highest point of rock above.

G. Gibson, M. Ward 03/Jun/1984.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Ultimate HVS ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff Nose , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 2020/21 Trips , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , First trad routes

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