UKC

Restricted Access

The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Finish direct from the overlap. Perhaps improves on the original finish. Well protected and maybe a bit easier for the tall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

CUMC Ticklist , 2021 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tituscrags 7 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Save a small wire for the crux at the end, no 3 I think
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Save a small wire for the crux at the end, no 3 I think
Michael Hellyer 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A high right foot was the key to a controlled static reach over the bulge. Left foot smears.
Show beta
βeta: A high right foot was the key to a controlled static reach over the bulge. Left foot smears.

Logged Ascents

625 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 93 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 102
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Notung

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...