UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

33m.

Rockfax Description
A fine pitch described with its right-hand finish rather than the direct on unstable rock. Begin 3m left of the large tree. Gain a flake at 3m and then head left to the end of the overhang above. Take the left-facing flake to a scoop (thread) and continue to another thread in the steep wall above. Follow more threads up the steep wall until a step right accesses a small tree. Ascend a flake and at its end, move right to meet and finish up Easy Rider. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
SEPT 2010. Very nice route Beware of Hornets nest at top. Possible to move right onto lower off for Easy rider.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Oscar Popels 11 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Threads could do with replacing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads could do with replacing
badgerjockey 10 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Careful with what you pull on in the last couple of metres to the yew tree belay! Decent rock is there among a stack of wobbly flakes and blocks... Don't belay directly under the climber! Yew tree is alive and held me...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Careful with what you pull on in the last couple of metres to the yew tree belay! Decent rock is there among a stack of wobbly flakes and blocks... Don't belay directly under the climber! Yew tree is alive and held me...
lieraza 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We thought the yew tree looked alive (just about) but the tree above Easy Rider nearby looked a bit more reputable so we abbed off that instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We thought the yew tree looked alive (just about) but the tree above Easy Rider nearby looked a bit more reputable so we abbed off that instead.
dinodinosaur 31 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced three of the six threads today. Numbers 3,4 and 6 I think. The rest could do with replacing too but I didn't have time or enough cord. Can reach all threads abbing from the tree at the top of easy rider or loss of innocence
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced three of the six threads today. Numbers 3,4 and 6 I think. The rest could do with replacing too but I didn't have time or enough cord. Can reach all threads abbing from the tree at the top of easy rider or loss of innocence
eduardo 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Belay tree looked fine and alive to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay tree looked fine and alive to me

Logged Ascents

314 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Never Say Goodbye

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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