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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A strong line which is at the top of the grade. Head for the white-stained groove and make some steep committing pulls to exit it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the white groove left of Dirty Harry into the peapod below a small overhang. Make interesting moves over the overhang to easier ground and a good belay station. Well protected, but some may find a little hard in the grade.
Ticklists
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Angel's Girdle
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)