UKC

20m. Start on the arete of the left of the two corners. Climb up and right heading for the concretions. Clip the in situ thread and pull up over the concretions on excellent hand holds and finish up to the small multi-trunked tree. Abseil tat in place.

Ticklists

Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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User Date Notes
chrishunt55 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer.
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βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer.
RoFanne 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stunningly good route
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βeta: Stunningly good route
mishabruml 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree
βeta?
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βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree
Kevin_Daniel_Garvey 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts.
 
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βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts.
ali.scott 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense...
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βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense...
Angus Bloomfield 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe.
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βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe.
dinodinosaur 25 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20
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βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20
DaveX 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun.
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βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun.
No? Yes! 8 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar
 
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βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar

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Whitt

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)
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