UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The wall and overlap is a quality pitch. Start just to the right of the short corner of Rebellion and climb to the overlap. Pull past the overlap on concretions and continue to a tree. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
chrishunt55 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer.
βeta?
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βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer.
RoFanne 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stunningly good route
βeta?
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βeta: Stunningly good route
mishabruml 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree
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βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree
Kevin_Daniel_Garvey 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts.
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βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts.
ali.scott 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense...
βeta?
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βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense...
Angus Bloomfield 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe.
βeta?
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βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe.
dinodinosaur 25 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20
βeta?
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βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20
DaveX 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun.
No? Yes! 8 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar
Show beta
βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 161
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 159
Votes cast 148
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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