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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
A rewarding pitch on good rock. Follow Dictator to the ledges under the crack. Go up to join and climb the right-leading widening crack. Follow the crack until some more difficult moves on its right are made to reach an easier finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow the excellent diagonal crack until your are forced out onto the arete. Mount the ledge and climb directly to the abseil tree shared with The Organ Grinder.


CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist


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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 85
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Angel's Girdle

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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