UKC

60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but technically relatively straightforward but don't underestimate it! Unfortunately the bolts are already showing their age.

1) 5+. Follow the steep (sometimes greasy) rock up the left-hand wall above the deep slot. Belay on bolts on the bridge.
2) 6a+. Climb direct above the belay on good-but-hidden holds - spaced bolts. Hand traverse right to a hanging stance.
3) 6a. Make a tricky move up left then revel in the superb position rising up leftwards to the exit hole © Rockfax

Rich Mayfield.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 15 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Good lord. The exposure and drop into the bottom was something else. Looking up and seeing that roof I could not feel that it was all going to crash down on me. My engineering brain cannot work out how such a roof is still withstanding. The abb in cut away at my confidence. Not much in the way of climbing experience to call upon to settle the nerves. Brilliant sun and hot against the rocks, which was lovely considering its 2 degrees in UK today and about 22 in Costa. P3 is 100% harder than P2. The bolts are high but protect the main parts and cruxes to the climb. Not sure why the belay station for P2 is hanging when one could have added the belay station 4 foot higher and on a better ledge? How knows, however I get that\'s part of the experience. Well done \'The Swan\' for his can do attitude and joining me on this nuts sport adventure. Definitely worthy of a Top 50 place. Absolutely bonkers with the setting and landscape. Bolts were tug tested as I did see rust on some of them. All seem fine. If I was being super cautious I would take a small rack of wires or cams with me. Generally though you can climb without them. Its user preference.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good lord. The exposure and drop into the bottom was something else. Looking up and seeing that roof I could not feel that it was all going to crash down on me. My engineering brain cannot work out how such a roof is still withstanding. The abb in cut away at my confidence. Not much in the way of climbing experience to call upon to settle the nerves. Brilliant sun and hot against the rocks, which was lovely considering its 2 degrees in UK today and about 22 in Costa. P3 is 100% harder than P2. The bolts are high but protect the main parts and cruxes to the climb. Not sure why the belay station for P2 is hanging when one could have added the belay station 4 foot higher and on a better ledge? How knows, however I get that's part of the experience. Well done 'The Swan' for his can do attitude and joining me on this nuts sport adventure. Definitely worthy of a Top 50 place. Absolutely bonkers with the setting and landscape. Bolts were tug tested as I did see rust on some of them. All seem fine. If I was being super cautious I would take a small rack of wires or cams with me. Generally though you can climb without them. Its user preference.
alex505c 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you read the beta on the abseil -- you need to leave a 60m rope fixed at the top, and there is a redirect anchor just below the lip of the hole to keep the rope from rubbing on the sharp edge. Also, the start was VERY greasy -- probably worth protecting the initial moves (risk of falling into a chasm) by tying belayer to the fixed abseil line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Make sure you read the beta on the abseil -- you need to leave a 60m rope fixed at the top, and there is a redirect anchor just below the lip of the hole to keep the rope from rubbing on the sharp edge. Also, the start was VERY greasy -- probably worth protecting the initial moves (risk of falling into a chasm) by tying belayer to the fixed abseil line.
miksmith 6 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
Show beta
βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
RosieGann 25 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
Show beta
βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.
Show beta
βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Erikindia

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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