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60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but technically relatively straightforward but don't underestimate it! Unfortunately the bolts are already showing their age.

1) 5+. Follow the steep (sometimes greasy) rock up the left-hand wall above the deep slot. Belay on bolts on the bridge.
2) 6a+. Climb direct above the belay on good-but-hidden holds - spaced bolts. Hand traverse right to a hanging stance.
3) 6a. Make a tricky move up left then revel in the superb position rising up leftwards to the exit hole © Rockfax

Rich Mayfield.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018

Feedback

User Date Notes
alex505c 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Heady and gorgeous and very fun climbing, though a little run out in places — I might have placed a couple of nuts if I'd had them. Also a bit greasy at the start of pitch 1 — my hand slipped on an easy move at the second bolt and I fell. To back up the moves till the first bolt (easy, but there's a chance of falling into a chasm), the belayer tied into our fixed rappel line. Then on pitch 2 I accidentally went past the belay station and kept traversing right onto a much harder and dirtier route with kind of scary rusty bolts — getting back was a bit pumpy and faffy. All in all, though, a fantastic climb.
 
Show beta
βeta: Heady and gorgeous and very fun climbing, though a little run out in places — I might have placed a couple of nuts if I'd had them. Also a bit greasy at the start of pitch 1 — my hand slipped on an easy move at the second bolt and I fell. To back up the moves till the first bolt (easy, but there's a chance of falling into a chasm), the belayer tied into our fixed rappel line. Then on pitch 2 I accidentally went past the belay station and kept traversing right onto a much harder and dirtier route with kind of scary rusty bolts — getting back was a bit pumpy and faffy. All in all, though, a fantastic climb.
miksmith 6 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
 
Show beta
βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
RosieGann 25 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
 
Show beta
βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.
 
Show beta
βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.

Logged Ascents

242 users have logged this
122 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

El Dorado

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)