Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route, especially on bank holidays. Start below a very wide crack in the east wall of the block. Climb up into the crack then make a slippery traverse left to a well-positioned thinner crack. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis & party Mar/1980.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Pembroke Goalz , Beginners Pembroke , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Pembroke ticket , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock , Pembs Classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Polished, but actually fun. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Polished, but actually fun. |
||||
JaySheppard | 19 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season |
||||
Eloise Horsfield | 1 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn\'t need to test it with a fall! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn't need to test it with a fall! |
||||
Pero | 13 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves. |
||||
Steve Lewis | 27 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ???? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ???? |
||||
tom r | 27 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it. |
||||
Albie | 3 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS. |
||||
Furzy Sleight | 10 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger! |
||||
Chris the Tall | 10 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem. |
||||
victim of mathematics | 9 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)