Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route, especially on bank holidays. Start below a very wide crack in the east wall of the block. Climb up into the crack then make a slippery traverse left to a well-positioned thinner crack. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis & party Mar/1980.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Pembroke Goalz , Beginners Pembroke , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Pembroke ticket , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Polished, but actually fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished, but actually fun. |
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JaySheppard | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season |
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Eloise Horsfield | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn\'t need to test it with a fall! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn't need to test it with a fall! |
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Pero | 13 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves. |
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Steve Lewis | 27 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ???? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ???? |
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tom r | 27 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it. |
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Albie | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS. |
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Furzy Sleight | 10 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger! |
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Chris the Tall | 10 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem. |
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victim of mathematics | 9 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)