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23m.

Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route, especially on bank holidays. Start below a very wide crack in the east wall of the block. Climb up into the crack then make a slippery traverse left to a well-positioned thinner crack. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis & party Mar/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Pembroke Goalz, Beginners Pembroke, Libby Peter's HVS Hit List

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User Date Notes
Eloise Horsfield 1 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn't need to test it with a fall!
βeta?
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βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn't need to test it with a fall!
Pero 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves.
βeta?
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βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves.
Steve Lewis 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ????
tom r 27 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it.
βeta?
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βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it.
Albie 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS.
Furzy Sleight 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger!
βeta?
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βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger!
Chris the Tall 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem.
victim of mathematics 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 259
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 235
Votes cast 262
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Heart of Darkness

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Mowingword)