UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
Branch left from Poison Arrow and climb a crack to the break. Move left and then pull up to a tricky finale. © Rockfax

FA. P.Twomey, S.Cardy 29/Jun/1997.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Billg 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry .. the e3 5c vote was meant to be for poison arrow
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry .. the e3 5c vote was meant to be for poison arrow

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wallbanger

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Crystal Slabs Area)

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