Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
A good technical pitch. Start as for Ricochet but move right to below a crack in the wall. Climb the crack and its continuation above, which leads rightwards to the top of Cupids Bow. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis, P.Littlejohn 1982.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon King | 22 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Sorry but this is not a technical pitch in my opinion. If you've got big arms and an ability to hang in there, you'll be fine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry but this is not a technical pitch in my opinion. If you've got big arms and an ability to hang in there, you'll be fine. |
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| NuclearNev | 12 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: I agree with John Alcock, only worth E3 5c, but still a nice route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree with John Alcock, only worth E3 5c, but still a nice route. |
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| John2 | 13 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Neither E4 nor 6A. Considerably easier than No Man's Land, for example. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Neither E4 nor 6A. Considerably easier than No Man's Land, for example. |
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| daveayton | 5 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Very good route on bomber gear ... maybe a little soft for E4 though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very good route on bomber gear ... maybe a little soft for E4 though |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Brave New World
Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's East)