UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
The line is up the left-hand groove of the big open corner above the ramp. Gain the groove from below and follow it to the roof. Pull steeply around this and finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FA. J.Lamb, D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 01/Jan/1977.

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, but quite pumpy. A worthy alternative to the Arrow, but rarely crowded. A big cam is nice at the crux, but not essential.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, but quite pumpy. A worthy alternative to the Arrow, but rarely crowded. A big cam is nice at the crux, but not essential.
chris j 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steady till you get to the roof, then desperate!! You'll feel it's time for the pub when you finish...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steady till you get to the roof, then desperate!! You'll feel it's time for the pub when you finish...

Logged Ascents

506 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 88
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zodiac

Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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