UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

15m.

Rockfax Description
The last of the crack climbs in this wall follows the thin crack just left of the descent gully. © Rockfax

FA. N.Siddiqui, S.Beresford Apr/1980.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete Burgess 21 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Just wait for army dreamers!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just wait for army dreamers!
alfredm 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Top of the route is incredibly dangerous, perhaps due to the very wet weather and then dry weather. Very chossy, large boulders came off easily. One smaller sized one nearly hit me as the leader was topping out. When I topped out, I mildly weighted a few of the larger rocks I was told to avoid and some big ones (at least 40cm, some a lot more) came right off.
Show beta
βeta: Top of the route is incredibly dangerous, perhaps due to the very wet weather and then dry weather. Very chossy, large boulders came off easily. One smaller sized one nearly hit me as the leader was topping out. When I topped out, I mildly weighted a few of the larger rocks I was told to avoid and some big ones (at least 40cm, some a lot more) came right off.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Space

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Space Buttress)

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