UKC

36m.

Rockfax Description
Start just left of a roof and climb the wall above to reach a wide crack. Follow this into a niche and continue to a ledge (possible belay). Step left and thrash your way up the crack above. © Rockfax

FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 2 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First main pitch is steep but easy moves with good holds and good gear and makes a lovely E2. Sadly the 2nd pitch spoils tbe route somewhat as whilst it starts easy the wider upper crack is quite traditional trutchy HVS style climbing that feels as hard as the first pitch but this is more due to the difficulty of protecting the wide crack and the alkward nature of the climbing than the overall difficulty. Even running the 2 pitches together it didn't feel near E3 as others have suggested.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First main pitch is steep but easy moves with good holds and good gear and makes a lovely E2. Sadly the 2nd pitch spoils tbe route somewhat as whilst it starts easy the wider upper crack is quite traditional trutchy HVS style climbing that feels as hard as the first pitch but this is more due to the difficulty of protecting the wide crack and the alkward nature of the climbing than the overall difficulty. Even running the 2 pitches together it didn't feel near E3 as others have suggested.

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hurricane

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Iron Age Fort)

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