Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JUNE 26TH 2022  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 






Rockfax Description
Another good climb. Start on the right of the arete at the right-hand end of the ramp. Climb the wall then pull around leftwards onto a ledge. Follow a series of open grooves above to reach an easy finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 16/Apr/1979.


101Pembroke Extremes


User Date Notes
hotsteve33 25 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a technical route, with fiddly gear. Definately worth E3, and a very good line.
Show beta
βeta: Quite a technical route, with fiddly gear. Definately worth E3, and a very good line.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Scoop

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Penally West)

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