Restricted Access
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) RESTRICTION LIFTED JUNE 26TH 2022
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Another good climb. Start on the right of the arete at the right-hand end of the ramp. Climb the wall then pull around leftwards onto a ledge. Follow a series of open grooves above to reach an easy finishing crack. © Rockfax
FA. D.Armstrong, P.Whillance 16/Apr/1979.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| hotsteve33 | 25 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite a technical route, with fiddly gear. Definately worth E3, and a very good line. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quite a technical route, with fiddly gear. Definately worth E3, and a very good line. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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The Scoop
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Penally West)