Rockfax Description
A brilliant direct route up the wall. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Move up and right towards a niche in the roof. Swing about on the huge holds and wave to your mates, then realise that the jugs disappear at the top of the niche and start to panic a bit. Climb up to another roof, pass it on its right then move back left into the awkward finishing corner. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter 17/Apr/1981.
Ticklists
Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Pembs '21
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave-Westlake | 25 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looks like a big chunk has come off at the start of the initial steep section, leaving a muddy patch. The move to get established here is by far the crux of the route now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Looks like a big chunk has come off at the start of the initial steep section, leaving a muddy patch. The move to get established here is by far the crux of the route now. |
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| Adam Long | 12 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Two large loose blocks removed from start of roof section. Remainder seems solid but may be more to come off yet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Two large loose blocks removed from start of roof section. Remainder seems solid but may be more to come off yet. |
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| Stanners | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Medium block soon to be pulled off above the ledge and has serious trauma/death potential for belayer. Caution required. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Medium block soon to be pulled off above the ledge and has serious trauma/death potential for belayer. Caution required. |
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| stevenboxwell | 12 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: A couple of large chunks of rock came of this climb just above the ledge. Not sure if it has changed the grade but be careful of other rock that may now be loosened | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A couple of large chunks of rock came of this climb just above the ledge. Not sure if it has changed the grade but be careful of other rock that may now be loosened |
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| NuclearNev | 12 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: An easy E3 if you have good power/weight ratio. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An easy E3 if you have good power/weight ratio. |
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| a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: lovely juggy climbing then a final groove/ corner which is well airy scarey bridging. excellent. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: lovely juggy climbing then a final groove/ corner which is well airy scarey bridging. excellent. |
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| Alun | 23 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Despite not having any particularly difficult moves, it does keeps coming at you. Keep some oomph reserved for the last corner, which is more awkward than it looks. Plenty of rests to be had while turning the lower overhang too, if you use your loaf! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Despite not having any particularly difficult moves, it does keeps coming at you. Keep some oomph reserved for the last corner, which is more awkward than it looks. Plenty of rests to be had while turning the lower overhang too, if you use your loaf! |
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| GDes | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: desperate in the morning when it's still greasy! wait til the sun gets on it. great climb though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: desperate in the morning when it's still greasy! wait til the sun gets on it. great climb though |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Many people's first Pembroke E3. Spectacular but safe. Easier in the afternoon when the crag dries out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Many people's first Pembroke E3. Spectacular but safe. Easier in the afternoon when the crag dries out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Amazon
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lydstep Point Area)