Rockfax Description
One of the most sought-after routes in Pembroke. It tackles the cracks and flakes up the right-hand side of the buttress. The climbing is never too difficult but there are some hard moves, and there have been many accidents on the lower section. Start just to the right of the flake of Cupid's Bow. Climb up - make sure your gear is good - and gain a rightwards-trending line of cracks. Climb this to a tricky move right into a groove. Most people finish rightwards to a ledge and easy groove above, but it is better to pull straight through the roof, with no increase in grade. © Rockfax
FA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 19/Feb/1977.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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steveq100 | 12 Aug |
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βeta: Removed a large loose block in the flowstone section (see Adam's comment below) and also added a thread low down to protect the initial steep moves as the large block on the left which is usually used for wires is getting a bit shakey. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Removed a large loose block in the flowstone section (see Adam's comment below) and also added a thread low down to protect the initial steep moves as the large block on the left which is usually used for wires is getting a bit shakey. |
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Adam Psyched | 2 Jul |
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βeta: Baby birds by a thread (it's hard to tell if they're distressed or hungry). Plus, there is a fairly wobbly block near this, roughly half-height. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Baby birds by a thread (it's hard to tell if they're distressed or hungry). Plus, there is a fairly wobbly block near this, roughly half-height. |
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Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Doesn\'t look like much but actually a cool route. Varied with cool climbing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Doesn't look like much but actually a cool route. Varied with cool climbing. |
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Nea Weston | 27 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding | βeta? | |
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βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding |
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Jezadee | 11 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today | βeta? | |
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βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today |
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Dale | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: What polish | βeta? | |
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βeta: What polish |
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Richard 261 | 24 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit. |
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a_radiohead_fan | 22 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: totally overated climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: totally overated climb. |
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Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune). |
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Neil Ireson | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle. |
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drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1. |
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Jus | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Four stars! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Four stars! |
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Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)