UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and underrated route which tackles the smooth white wall directly by some surprisingly amenable climbing. Start as for Flight Path and climb the wall with a hard move to gain a curving overlap at half-height (reasonable gear and two stainless pegs). Move left then continue up the easier but scarier upper wall trending left to finish up The Arrow. The original start was slightly to the right but is a bit artificial. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, P.Gibson 23/Oct/1982.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Theo's Pembroke ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
GDes 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not 3 stars, but good climbing.
Show beta
βeta: Definitely not 3 stars, but good climbing.

Logged Ascents

154 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bloody Sunday

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Huntsman's Leap)

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