Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully. © Rockfax
FA. B.Newman, R.Thomas, S.Bancroft 07/Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chris j | 2 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 22 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Standard E0 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Standard E0 |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this. |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb. |
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| John2 | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected. |
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| john horscroft | 21 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Poss E1? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Poss E1? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Welcome to the Cruise
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)