UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
Steep climbing up the left-hand of the two cracks under the abseil. It can be dirty but is good when clean and dry. © Rockfax

FA. S.Bancroft, B.Newman 05/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alun 22 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree that it's very much a route to do if you're on limited time, but still I enjoyed it very much.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree that it's very much a route to do if you're on limited time, but still I enjoyed it very much.
craig h 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nothing realy between this and 'But incest is best' both have good gear, are strenuous and very polished. Worth doing if not a lot of time or weather looks poor. Otherwise there are plenty of better routes at these grades worth finding.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nothing realy between this and 'But incest is best' both have good gear, are strenuous and very polished. Worth doing if not a lot of time or weather looks poor. Otherwise there are plenty of better routes at these grades worth finding.

Logged Ascents

619 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underneath the Arches

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Mewsford Arches)

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