Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 26/Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Soft Touches , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn\'t, wouldn\'t commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I\'ll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn't, wouldn't commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I'll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you! |
||||
| a_radiohead_fan | 16 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: pumpy pumpy. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: pumpy pumpy. |
||||
| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. |
||||
| Furzy Sleight | 8 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ear Lobes? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ear Lobes? |
||||
| john horscroft | 30 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. |
||||
| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. |
||||
| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. |
||||
| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Rock around the Block
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Trevallen Cliff)