Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 26/Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, Extreme 2018, E is for Easy... Right?, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist, Soft Touches, 2020/21 Goals
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| a_radiohead_fan | 16 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: pumpy pumpy. | βeta? |
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βeta: pumpy pumpy. |
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| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 8 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Ear Lobes? | βeta? |
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βeta: Ear Lobes? |
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| john horscroft | 30 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. | βeta? |
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βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. | βeta? |
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βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. | βeta? |
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βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. | βeta? |
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βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! |
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Logged Ascents
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Fickle Heart
Grade: E3 5c ***(Raming Hole Area)