Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 26/Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Soft Touches , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Local Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S Strydom | 18 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Incredible route! Big thanks to Willth9 for the belay. Loved working on this after really struggling on it on top rope last year, made it one of my goals for this year. Admittedly had a few solo sessions working the moves and gear out but still felt pretty pumpy. Lots of good gear and decent holds all the way up. Although I never really used the hidden jug as it was just out of my reach so just used the arete and climbed past the jug. So happy to get it done. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Incredible route! Big thanks to Willth9 for the belay. Loved working on this after really struggling on it on top rope last year, made it one of my goals for this year. Admittedly had a few solo sessions working the moves and gear out but still felt pretty pumpy. Lots of good gear and decent holds all the way up. Although I never really used the hidden jug as it was just out of my reach so just used the arete and climbed past the jug. So happy to get it done. |
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| Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn\'t, wouldn\'t commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I\'ll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn't, wouldn't commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I'll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you! |
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| a_radiohead_fan | 16 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: pumpy pumpy. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: pumpy pumpy. |
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| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 8 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ear Lobes? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ear Lobes? |
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| john horscroft | 30 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing. |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Male Bonding
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)