Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 






Rockfax Description
The right-hand groove of the big open corner gives an excellent route with a exciting and exposed finish. Pull over an undercut nose below and right of the groove then move left and climb up to the second of two pedestal ledges. Move up then swing right into a line of broken cracks which lead to an awkward position below a roof. Move right to a rest below another roof, then pull back left and climb the groove to the top. © Rockfax

FA. D.Furze, R.Scott 07/Apr/1985.


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 50
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underneath the Arches

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Mewsford Arches)

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