Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 






Rockfax Description
The wall just to the right of the corner is a lot steeper than it looks. Start as for War Crime but step off the first pedestal onto the wall. Climb this to a huge hanging flake. Continue past another flake to the upper groove which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 24/May/1986.


User Date Notes
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easyish for E4 if you keep going. It's more pleasant to miss out the last loose groove and finish up War Game.
Show beta
βeta: Easyish for E4 if you keep going. It's more pleasant to miss out the last loose groove and finish up War Game.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vladimir and the Beast

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Huntsman's Leap)

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