UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  B

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)  

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
An underrated route which is probably as good as Tactician. Start as for the last three routes but move right and climb a crack to gain a left-trending scoop. Follow this into the triangular niche and then move up to a ledge. Make a deceptive move up the groove above to reach a ledge, then climb the wildly-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Botteril, J.Lamb 04/Apr/1979.

Ticklists

Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
featuresforfeet 2 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The horizontal flake near the top is moves quite a bit - didn't notice it on lead but it pulled out about an inch when my second was on it!
βeta?
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βeta: The horizontal flake near the top is moves quite a bit - didn't notice it on lead but it pulled out about an inch when my second was on it!
annihuovinen 16 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose block near the top where Dave had his last nut. Hard to climb around it without pulling on it - be very mindful for last few metres.
βeta?
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βeta: Very loose block near the top where Dave had his last nut. Hard to climb around it without pulling on it - be very mindful for last few metres.
Kiddie68 5 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.
olliemartin 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge
βeta?
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βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge
Nathan8816 13 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
Show beta
βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
John Cuthbert 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
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βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
Kateharrison110 7 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.
βeta?
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βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.
Furzy Sleight 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me
βeta?
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βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!
βeta?
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βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 103
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cool for Cats

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)

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