UKC

33m.

Rockfax Description
An underrated route which is probably as good as Tactician. Start as for the last three routes but move right and climb a crack to gain a left-trending scoop. Follow this into the triangular niche and then move up to a ledge. Make a deceptive move up the groove above to reach a ledge, then climb the wildly-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Botteril, J.Lamb 04/Apr/1979.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 5 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.
olliemartin 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge
Nathan8816 13 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
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βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
John Cuthbert 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
Show beta
βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
Kateharrison110 7 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.
βeta?
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βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.
Furzy Sleight 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!
βeta?
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βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 98
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Barad

Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. David's Head East)

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