UKC Logbook - 'War Games'

33m.

Rockfax Description
An underrated route which is probably as good as Tactician. Start as for the last three routes but move right and climb a crack to gain a left-trending scoop. Follow this into the triangular niche and then move up to a ledge. Make a deceptive move up the groove above to reach a ledge, then climb the wildly-positioned corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Botteril, J.Lamb 04/Apr/1979.

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User	Date		Notes
featuresforfeet	2 May	Show βeta βeta: The horizontal flake near the top is moves quite a bit - didn't notice it on lead but it pulled out about an inch when my second was on it!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The horizontal flake near the top is moves quite a bit - didn't notice it on lead but it pulled out about an inch when my second was on it!
annihuovinen	16 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Very loose block near the top where Dave had his last nut. Hard to climb around it without pulling on it - be very mindful for last few metres.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very loose block near the top where Dave had his last nut. Hard to climb around it without pulling on it - be very mindful for last few metres.
Kiddie68	5 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route. Gets E2 in new guide, but is prob high E1. Loses a star due loose rock, but I didn’t see much of that until right at the top and mostly avoidable.
olliemartin	3 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Loose block beneath the first bulge
Nathan8816	13 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
Show beta βeta: A few meters from the top there's a flake that would be a great hold but does wobble back and forth so should be used with care
John Cuthbert	22 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
Show beta βeta: A route of remarkably high quality. As regards its demands, the other beta comments here are spot on; many difficult sections, but not super sustained. I felt I had to climb through the steeper sections without placing gear, which felt a bit bold but less pumpy. Managed on a single rope without rope drag...
Kateharrison110	7 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Couple of wobbly holds - one under the laybacking overhang and one as you pull up on the big ledge before the final overhanging crack.
Furzy Sleight	2 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really great route with 3 different sections with good rest ledges inbetween. Felt like hard E1 to Me
drcorbasisgod	9 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This climb is great value and reasonable continuous at 5b. I also liked it because it starts off a bit easier to let you get some momentum!
John Alcock	26 Aug, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I you think it's E2 (like the CC) then it's a good first E2 in that area. If you think it's E1, then it's a bit more of a battle. Pleasant though.