Rockfax Description
A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to abseil straight to the stance and just do the top pitch which is very atmospheric when the sea is in. Start at a rightwards facing corner below the right-hand side of the headwall.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (often wet).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and left, on large holds, to a short arete. Continue with difficulty to the right-hand crack and climb this. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Ward-Tetley Apr/1977.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Fellover | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Some people in the comments saying E4 6a now the block has gone, no idea what it was like before the block went, but imho this was the easiest of 4 E3's on this trip. I definitely wouldn't be put off trying it as an E3 leader. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Some people in the comments saying E4 6a now the block has gone, no idea what it was like before the block went, but imho this was the easiest of 4 E3's on this trip. I definitely wouldn't be put off trying it as an E3 leader. |
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| Mark Stevenson | 30 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Physically the hardest thing I've climbed this year. Superb climbing, amazing position, well recommended :-) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Physically the hardest thing I've climbed this year. Superb climbing, amazing position, well recommended :-) |
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| Frank the Husky | 12 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: The experience can be extended by doing this in one big pitch...making the moves through the overhang feel even more 'out there' than they already do! marvellous! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The experience can be extended by doing this in one big pitch...making the moves through the overhang feel even more 'out there' than they already do! marvellous! |
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| Rock Fairy | 31 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Second pitch VERY steep!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second pitch VERY steep!! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stackpole Head
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Fickle Heart
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Raming Hole Area)