UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to abseil straight to the stance and just do the top pitch which is very atmospheric when the sea is in. Start at a rightwards facing corner below the right-hand side of the headwall.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (often wet).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and left, on large holds, to a short arete. Continue with difficulty to the right-hand crack and climb this. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Ward-Tetley Apr/1977.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
Fellover 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some people in the comments saying E4 6a now the block has gone, no idea what it was like before the block went, but imho this was the easiest of 4 E3's on this trip. I definitely wouldn't be put off trying it as an E3 leader.
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βeta: Some people in the comments saying E4 6a now the block has gone, no idea what it was like before the block went, but imho this was the easiest of 4 E3's on this trip. I definitely wouldn't be put off trying it as an E3 leader.
Mark Stevenson 30 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Physically the hardest thing I've climbed this year. Superb climbing, amazing position, well recommended :-)
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βeta: Physically the hardest thing I've climbed this year. Superb climbing, amazing position, well recommended :-)
Frank the Husky 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The experience can be extended by doing this in one big pitch...making the moves through the overhang feel even more 'out there' than they already do! marvellous!
βeta?
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βeta: The experience can be extended by doing this in one big pitch...making the moves through the overhang feel even more 'out there' than they already do! marvellous!
Rock Fairy 31 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch VERY steep!!
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βeta: Second pitch VERY steep!!

Logged Ascents

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Test Case

Grade: E3 5c ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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