39m.

Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
A seminal route in many climber's careers; as your arms become tired, the holds just get bigger and bigger! Start below the groove as for Deep Space. Climb the groove, which is surprisingly technical and slabby, until a line of jugs leads out right to another groove. Follow this, with most of the Atlantic Ocean beneath you, then move right into an easier finishing crack.
Warp Gate, E5 6b - The version described in Extreme Rock is actually the best line on the crag but is seldom climbed. It starts up Warp Factor and continues up Star Gate. Solid E5! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn Mar/1977

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, Showcase Britain & Ireland, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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Julian Wedd 2008 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Sut 27 Aug Lead O/S
Rosie 27 Aug 2nd
Hidden 19 Aug -
JendeHoxar 17 Aug 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Aug Lead O/S
Ted F 3 Jun Lead O/S
with Mike G
with Mike G
Hidden 23 Apr 2nd O/S
WB 20 Apr Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 20 Apr 2nd rpt
with WB
with WB
esther ?Apr Lead
fatboyslimfast ?? -
mrblack ?? -
MikePycroft 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Long pitch, kept going but very dry.
with Elfyn
Long pitch, kept going but very dry.
with Elfyn
Andrew1 17 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S better than Zeppelin, nothing more need be said!
with Hulda
better than Zeppelin, nothing more need be said!
with Hulda
Hulda 17 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Mike_Hayes 5 Aug, 2018 Lead Hard E2 in an E3 setting
with John Nightingale
Hard E2 in an E3 setting
with John Nightingale
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sophie Keltie
with Sophie Keltie
Wil Treasure 31 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Snapped a foothold and took a big ride from the start of the final groove. Getting back onto the rock was a little interesting. Great route.
Snapped a foothold and took a big ride from the start of the final groove. Getting back onto the rock was a little interesting. Great route.
Martin Bagshaw 31 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2018 2nd
Tom.Priestley 22 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Awesome, bit damp at bottom. Keeps coming and what a wild position.
Awesome, bit damp at bottom. Keeps coming and what a wild position.
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
gingernick 18 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Came back down from the mid belay. Amazing and pumped out. One to go back for
Came back down from the mid belay. Amazing and pumped out. One to go back for
dmorgan27 18 Jul, 2017 2nd Failed miserably to second Nick. He had to lower off.
Failed miserably to second Nick. He had to lower off.
Haydn Jones 9 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Spoiled by the fact i forgot the nut key. Endedup loosing a nut.... Or two
with Paul reeves
Spoiled by the fact i forgot the nut key. Endedup loosing a nut.... Or two
with Paul reeves
julesmckim 23 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S Perhaps the best of the 3 star routes of the weekend. Seconding a route this good is always a bit gutting - wish I'd led it! Just fantastic - climbing interesting all the way and the sense of tiptoeing along the rim of the void is maintained until the last moves.
Perhaps the best of the 3 star routes of the weekend. Seconding a route this good is always a bit gutting - wish I'd led it! Just fantastic - climbing interesting all the way and the sense of tiptoeing along the rim of the void is maintained until the last moves.
AlexRenshaw 23 Apr, 2017 Lead
davkeo 21 Apr, 2017 Lead Where to begin! Firstly I shouldn't have been on this as it's bird banned. A genuine mistake. Intention was to do deep space but I ended up getting sucked up further and further through the overhangs expecting to find an obvious place to step left onto the face. It never arrived and what ensued was my hardest battle on a climb to date. I used all my chalk due to the wet start and the talc thirsty greasy pockets. I got pumped out of my mind with the continuous chalking & nature of the climbing & thought I was completely boxed on numerous occasions. Each time (eventually) I managed to get enough back to at least try the next moves which I was surprised to get through. The battle went on and added to this was the fact that I wasn't quite happy with some of my gear & the situation was a constant reminder. It seemed inevitable that I would be taking a sizable lop into space & then have the ignominy of being lowered into the sea or more hard work prussiking up the rope. Neither option seemed appealing and maybe that somehow helped me dig a little deeper. After a lot of hard work I arrived at a niche were the climbing ahead looked considerably thinner & even more overhanging. Decided to rest on gear at this point to look around and try correct my line or at least find an escape! Can't claim the on sight as a result but it was necessary to see where I needed to go & consult my topo (should have consulted this a little more thoroughly to start with). Stepped right & continued up the flakey groove with no more draws & 4 cams. This felt quite adventurous but thankfully the climbing was easier & more restful. No gear left to protect the final pull around so this felt a bit out there. Never happier to arrive at the top of a climb. Totally smashed but lots learned & an insight into the level of effort that is possible. Not sure I'd want to do it on every climb though. Funny thing is it was Tim's lead but he let me go first as his route required a low tide. He couldn't have realized that I'd take so long that there was a danger of another high tide cycle before I got to the top. Oughfff.
Where to begin! Firstly I shouldn't have been on this as it's bird banned. A genuine mistake. Intention was to do deep space but I ended up getting sucked up further and further through the overhangs expecting to find an obvious place to step left onto the face. It never arrived and what ensued was my hardest battle on a climb to date. I used all my chalk due to the wet start and the talc thirsty greasy pockets. I got pumped out of my mind with the continuous chalking & nature of the climbing & thought I was completely boxed on numerous occasions. Each time (eventually) I managed to get enough back to at least try the next moves which I was surprised to get through. The battle went on and added to this was the fact that I wasn't quite happy with some of my gear & the situation was a constant reminder. It seemed inevitable that I would be taking a sizable lop into space & then have the ignominy of being lowered into the sea or more hard work prussiking up the rope. Neither option seemed appealing and maybe that somehow helped me dig a little deeper. After a lot of hard work I arrived at a niche were the climbing ahead looked considerably thinner & even more overhanging. Decided to rest on gear at this point to look around and try correct my line or at least find an escape! Can't claim the on sight as a result but it was necessary to see where I needed to go & consult my topo (should have consulted this a little more thoroughly to start with). Stepped right & continued up the flakey groove with no more draws & 4 cams. This felt quite adventurous but thankfully the climbing was easier & more restful. No gear left to protect the final pull around so this felt a bit out there. Never happier to arrive at the top of a climb. Totally smashed but lots learned & an insight into the level of effort that is possible. Not sure I'd want to do it on every climb though. Funny thing is it was Tim's lead but he let me go first as his route required a low tide. He couldn't have realized that I'd take so long that there was a danger of another high tide cycle before I got to the top. Oughfff.
mim tiller 21 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S Pretty amazing position for the grade
with davkeo
Pretty amazing position for the grade
with davkeo
beni 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with wojt
with wojt
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Cheese Monkey 14 Sep, 2016 2nd dog Had a rest cus I recon Steve went wrong way. That's my excuse!
Had a rest cus I recon Steve went wrong way. That's my excuse!
just one more 14 Sep, 2016 Lead Greasy/ soaking wet at the start,nearly off! Traversed right slightly too low,pumpy as hell,nearly off! Then steep but steady,great route,already looking forward to repeating it on a crisp day
Greasy/ soaking wet at the start,nearly off! Traversed right slightly too low,pumpy as hell,nearly off! Then steep but steady,great route,already looking forward to repeating it on a crisp day
Dangerous Dave 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Possibly the best route of the week for me even though it was super greasy! Great positions.
with coula1
Possibly the best route of the week for me even though it was super greasy! Great positions.
with coula1
Duncan Campbell 28 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Seconded this years ago with a couple of rests as I was gripped about falling into space. Just enjoyed it the whole way this time. Brilliant route. Shame the swell was too big for me to try White Heat after this.
Seconded this years ago with a couple of rests as I was gripped about falling into space. Just enjoyed it the whole way this time. Brilliant route. Shame the swell was too big for me to try White Heat after this.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Not a crimp in sight...
Not a crimp in sight...
Adam24B 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kris2fa
with Kris2fa
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Kasia
with Kasia
Kris2fa 14 Aug, 2016 2nd dog
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
eel ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
Andy Moles 25 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Thought Deep Space was amazing enough, then I did this...wow!
with ferdia
Thought Deep Space was amazing enough, then I did this...wow!
with ferdia
ferdia 25 Apr, 2016 2nd
guy xavier percival 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Pumpy first pitch Great positions
with crispin
Pumpy first pitch Great positions
with crispin
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
spidermonkey09 18 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Great route, how can an E3 have so many jugs?! Steep and intimidating but not that hard, and pretty easy to read compared to Zeppelin. First proper Pembroke E3 after the Butcher.
Great route, how can an E3 have so many jugs?! Steep and intimidating but not that hard, and pretty easy to read compared to Zeppelin. First proper Pembroke E3 after the Butcher.
Hidden 18 Sep, 2015 2nd dog
datoon 30 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Adam Coles
with Adam Coles
Hidden 29 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
benkelsey 17 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Best route of the trip. Ludicrous exposure on the biggest holds in the world. 5 stars
Best route of the trip. Ludicrous exposure on the biggest holds in the world. 5 stars
The Grist 16 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 2nd β
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
dan gibson 21 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Eszter
with Eszter
Tom Livingstone 23 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with TS
with TS
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??, 2015 Lead
gurumed 29 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Best single pitch I've ever done.
with gjd
Best single pitch I've ever done.
with gjd
gjd 29 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with gurumed
with gurumed
Cardi 30 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
with Irish, Sarah Joyce
with Irish, Sarah Joyce
Sarah Black 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Gareth James, irish paul
with Gareth James, irish paul
markalmack 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S found this hard and pumpy
with james marjot
found this hard and pumpy
with james marjot
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
cooperman 20 Sep, 2013 Lead β
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
pipof747 10 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 28 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
JulesV 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S What an amazing route!
What an amazing route!
CJEFF 12 Aug, 2013 2nd dog Mangled fingers
with Thomas Ramsdon
Mangled fingers
with Thomas Ramsdon
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Justin T 11 Aug, 2013 2nd
Ed Babs 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Out of this world.
with AlexD
Out of this world.
with AlexD
AlexD 18 Sep, 2012 2nd Mega
with Ed Babs
Mega
with Ed Babs
Ed morris 31 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Super pumpy but nowhere desperate. A fantastic line, Monster holds to wedge various limbs in if you get a little pumped!
with Dickon
Super pumpy but nowhere desperate. A fantastic line, Monster holds to wedge various limbs in if you get a little pumped!
with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 31 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 -
Owain Llewelyn 29 Feb, 2012 Lead
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Nick Sillem ??, 2012 -
buzby78 1 Sep, 2011 Lead
with McGeek
with McGeek
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
JRae 22 Aug, 2011 2nd
with mwatson
with mwatson
Ian Jones 18 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S A total path. E2.
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
A total path. E2.
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
david morse 28 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Super pumpy, especially if wet at the start. Make sure you know where the traverse right starts, its not so obvious when youre up there. Outstanding route
with Duncan
Super pumpy, especially if wet at the start. Make sure you know where the traverse right starts, its not so obvious when youre up there. Outstanding route
with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 28 Jul, 2011 2nd Wet at the bottom. Took 2 hangs on gear to keep the pump at a minimum so I didn't fall off and end up in space. This is a pumpy beast and you are on your arms all the way!
Wet at the bottom. Took 2 hangs on gear to keep the pump at a minimum so I didn't fall off and end up in space. This is a pumpy beast and you are on your arms all the way!
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 - wow
wow
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
cem 30 Aug, 2010 2nd dog Slipped near start
with Johan Piper, drcorbasisgod
Slipped near start
with Johan Piper, drcorbasisgod
irish paul 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Stunning line, probably the best E3 I've done in Pembroke, simply fabulous!
with Sarah Joyce
Stunning line, probably the best E3 I've done in Pembroke, simply fabulous!
with Sarah Joyce
drcorbasisgod 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Johan Piper, cem
with Johan Piper, cem
mattnuttall 29 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Superb.
with Ian Heginbotham
Superb.
with Ian Heginbotham
thomasadixon 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Absolutely brilliant route.
Absolutely brilliant route.
andy dunn 29 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
Billg 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S absolutely fantastic route - never hard but keeps going on big holds all the way
with Megan Beaumont
absolutely fantastic route - never hard but keeps going on big holds all the way
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 14 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
steveb2006 7 Aug, 2009 2nd Great route - led 20 years ago
with Roland Smith
Great route - led 20 years ago
with Roland Smith
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 6 Aug, 2009 2nd β
with loundsy
with loundsy
feilx 2 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 21 Sep, 2008 Solo rpt Had been wanting to solo this all through the miserable Summer and at last: a crisp, sunny day.
Had been wanting to solo this all through the miserable Summer and at last: a crisp, sunny day.
morganator 24 Aug, 2008 Lead
with Neil McAdie
with Neil McAdie
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
Julian Wedd ??, 2008 Lead Fantastic route
with A. Howarth
Fantastic route
with A. Howarth
Ram MkiV 13 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with reeve
with reeve
NeilGriffiths 27 Aug, 2007 -
with frost
with frost
frost ?Aug, 2007 2nd
with N Griffiths
with N Griffiths
gonggashan ?Nov, 2006 2nd
with Dan Perrott
with Dan Perrott
Hidden 8 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??, 2006 2nd
Boy ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Chubbard 30 Sep, 2005 AltLd dog
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
pete johnson 2 Sep, 2005 Lead
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 Lead
Dave Reeve ?Sep, 2005 2nd O/S Climbed on a windy day with swiftly rising tide, no chalk as Tony had to borrow mine.. a bit gripping on the bottom as a fall would have had me trying to prussik out of the sea...great climb though..!
with Tony Payne
Climbed on a windy day with swiftly rising tide, no chalk as Tony had to borrow mine.. a bit gripping on the bottom as a fall would have had me trying to prussik out of the sea...great climb though..!
with Tony Payne
Brown 1 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
haydng ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?Aug, 2004 2nd O/S
with Jack G
with Jack G
Andrew Barker ?Jun, 2004 Lead dog My first attempt at an E3. At least two falls and I ran out of quickdraws near the top but very glad I tried it.
with lx
My first attempt at an E3. At least two falls and I ran out of quickdraws near the top but very glad I tried it.
with lx
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2003 2nd rpt
pete johnson 28 Aug, 2000 Lead rpt
with Trevor Messiah, Enga Lokey
with Trevor Messiah, Enga Lokey
Hidden 31 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
ellis ?Sep, 1998 2nd O/S
with coula1
with coula1
nickdonohue 28 Aug, 1998 Lead superb climbing; one of the best climbs / best bits of climbing I've done; my first E3
with Mark McCarthy
superb climbing; one of the best climbs / best bits of climbing I've done; my first E3
with Mark McCarthy
Dave Rumney 26 Aug, 1998 Lead
with Dennis Wong
with Dennis Wong
Hidden 1 Feb, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1998 2nd
Steve Long ??, 1998 -
Si Clapham ??, 1998 Lead way out there
with JC
way out there
with JC
Martin Cooper ?Sep, 1997 2nd
morganator ?Sep, 1997 Lead
Hidden 25 Aug, 1997 Lead
phardman ??, 1997 -
Steve Crowe 29 Aug, 1996 2nd rpt
with karin
with karin
andybirtwistle 14 Aug, 1996 Lead
with Steve Brewis
with Steve Brewis
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??, 1994 -
pmot ??, 1994 2nd
with Another Mr Lizard
with Another Mr Lizard
whispering nic ?Aug, 1993 2nd
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Pete Wimbush ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Chris Wiles
with Chris Wiles
Hidden ?Jun, 1992 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 19 Apr, 1992 -
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 19 Apr, 1992 -
Matt Clifton ??, 1992 Lead O/S Good
with Helen
Good
with Helen
Andy Edgar ??, 1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
Roget 6 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Dave Musgrove 27 Mar, 1991 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27 Mar, 1991 2nd
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1991 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??, 1991 Lead O/S circa 1991 (seconded Karin 29Aug1996)
circa 1991 (seconded Karin 29Aug1996)
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jul, 1990 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1990 2nd
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
DDDD ??, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
steveboote ?Aug, 1989 2nd
with John Nuttal
with John Nuttal
Hidden ?May, 1989 Lead
steveb2006 11 Sep, 1988 Lead Great route
with Andy Hartog (Hedge)
Great route
with Andy Hartog (Hedge)
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1988 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 1988 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Nigel Coe ?Aug, 1987 2nd dog I used 1 rest point.
I used 1 rest point.
Hidden 8 Jul, 1987 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1987 2nd
Will Webb ?Jun, 1987 Lead
with Mark Cole
with Mark Cole
Steve Lewis 20 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Hidden 19 Apr, 1987 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
frank ramsay ??, 1987 Lead
keefe 6 Sep, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
Neil McA 19 Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
with Jim Dockery
with Jim Dockery
UKB Shark ?Jul, 1986 Lead dog
with Grin
with Grin
Brian Wilderspin 4 Jun, 1986 2nd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Mike Owen 29 May, 1986 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
with Eric Rooseberry
Hidden 18 Jul, 1985 2nd
AlexRenshaw 15 Jul, 1985 2nd
Hidden ??, 1985 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 9 Sep, 1982 AltLd
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Hidden ?May, 1981 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
with Martin Corbett
with Martin Corbett
duncan ??, 1981 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set