Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
A seminal route in many climber's careers; as your arms become tired, the holds just get bigger and bigger! Start below the groove as for Deep Space. Climb the groove, which is surprisingly technical and slabby, until a line of jugs leads out right to another groove. Follow this, with most of the Atlantic Ocean beneath you, then move right into an easier finishing crack.
Warp Gate, E5 6b - The version described in Extreme Rock is actually the best line on the crag but is seldom climbed. It starts up Warp Factor and continues up Star Gate. Solid E5! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 3.77 Mar/1977

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist.

Tom.Priestley 22/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Awesome, bit damp at bottom. Keeps coming and what a wild position.

Hidden 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Aug/17 2nd

Seconding this put an ever widening smile on my face - can't wait to come back and lead it! In perfect condition today.

with Kev
gingernick 18/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Came back down from the mid belay. Amazing and pumped out. One to go back for

with Darrell
dmorgan27 18/Jul/17 2nd

Failed miserably to second Nick. He had to lower off.

Haydn Jones 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Spoiled by the fact i forgot the nut key. Endedup loosing a nut.... Or two

with Paul reeves
julesmckim 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Perhaps the best of the 3 star routes of the weekend. Seconding a route this good is always a bit gutting - wish I'd led it! Just fantastic - climbing interesting all the way and the sense of tiptoeing along the rim of the void is maintained until the last moves.

AlexRenshaw 23/Apr/17 Lead
davkeo 21/Apr/17 Lead

Where to begin! Firstly I shouldn't have been on this as it's bird banned. A genuine mistake. Intention was to do deep space but I ended up getting sucked up further and further through the overhangs expecting to find an obvious place to step left onto the face. It never arrived and what ensued was my hardest battle on a climb to date. I used all my chalk due to the wet start and the talc thirsty greasy pockets. I got pumped out of my mind with the continuous chalking & nature of the climbing & thought I was completely boxed on numerous occasions. Each time (eventually) I managed to get enough back to at least try the next moves which I was surprised to get through. The battle went on and added to this was the fact that I wasn't quite happy with some of my gear & the situation was a constant reminder. It seemed inevitable that I would be taking a sizable lop into space & then have the ignominy of being lowered into the sea or more hard work prussiking up the rope. Neither option seemed appealing and maybe that somehow helped me dig a little deeper. After a lot of hard work I arrived at a niche were the climbing ahead looked considerably thinner & even more overhanging. Decided to rest on gear at this point to look around and try correct my line or at least find an escape! Can't claim the on sight as a result but it was necessary to see where I needed to go & consult my topo (should have consulted this a little more thoroughly to start with). Stepped right & continued up the flakey groove with no more draws & 4 cams. This felt quite adventurous but thankfully the climbing was easier & more restful. No gear left to protect the final pull around so this felt a bit out there. Never happier to arrive at the top of a climb. Totally smashed but lots learned & an insight into the level of effort that is possible. Not sure I'd want to do it on every climb though. Funny thing is it was Tim's lead but he let me go first as his route required a low tide. He couldn't have realized that I'd take so long that there was a danger of another high tide cycle before I got to the top. Oughfff.

Timothy Miller 21/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Pretty amazing position for the grade

beni 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Wojtek
Hidden ??/2017 -
Cheese Monkey 14/Sep/16 2nd dog

Had a rest cus I recon Steve went wrong way. That's my excuse!

just one more 14/Sep/16 Lead

Greasy/ soaking wet at the start,nearly off! Traversed right slightly too low,pumpy as hell,nearly off! Then steep but steady,great route,already looking forward to repeating it on a crisp day

Dangerous Dave 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Possibly the best route of the week for me even though it was super greasy! Great positions.

Duncan Campbell 28/Aug/16 2nd rpt

Seconded this years ago with a couple of rests as I was gripped about falling into space. Just enjoyed it the whole way this time. Brilliant route. Shame the swell was too big for me to try White Heat after this.

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Not a crimp in sight...

Adam24B 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Kris2fa 14/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Hidden 14/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
eel ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/16 2nd
Andy Moles 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Thought Deep Space was amazing enough, then I did!

with Ferdia
ferdia 25/Apr/16 2nd
guy xavier percival 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Pumpy first pitch Great positions

with crispin
Hidden ??/2016 2nd
spidermonkey09 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Great route, how can an E3 have so many jugs?! Steep and intimidating but not that hard, and pretty easy to read compared to Zeppelin. First proper Pembroke E3 after the Butcher.

Hidden 18/Sep/15 2nd dog
datoon 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Adam Coles
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Best route of the trip. Ludicrous exposure on the biggest holds in the world. 5 stars

with Shaun Humphreys
The Grist 16/Aug/15 2nd
PaulTanton 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I think this is the best route I've ever done at Pembroke. It is fantastic. Not really hard. Excellent moves on good holds in a great position. It's also safe..

anguskille 07/Aug/15 2nd β
with James Kay
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with Eszter
Tom Livingstone 23/Mar/15 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
gurumed 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Best single pitch I've ever done.

with gjd
gjd 29/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Gurumed
Cardi 30/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Irish, Sarah Joyce
Sarah Black 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gareth James, Paul Black
markalmack 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

found this hard and pumpy

with james marjot
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead dog
cooperman 20/Sep/13 Lead β
with Graham Iles
Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
JulesV 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

What an amazing route!

Hidden 12/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Sue
Ed Babs 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Out of this world.

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/12 2nd


with Ed
Ed morris 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Super pumpy but nowhere desperate. A fantastic line, Monster holds to wedge various limbs in if you get a little pumped!

with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Owain Llewelyn 29/Feb/12 Lead
with Gareth E
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
buzby78 01/Sep/11 Lead
with McGeek
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
JRae 22/Aug/11 2nd
Ian Jones 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A total path. E2.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
david morse 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Super pumpy, especially if wet at the start. Make sure you know where the traverse right starts, its not so obvious when youre up there. Outstanding route

with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/11 2nd

Wet at the bottom. Took 2 hangs on gear to keep the pump at a minimum so I didn't fall off and end up in space. This is a pumpy beast and you are on your arms all the way!

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -


Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
cem 30/Aug/10 2nd dog

Slipped near start

with Johan Piper, Chris Parson
irish paul 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Stunning line, probably the best E3 I've done in Pembroke, simply fabulous!

with Sarah Joyce
drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S


with Ian Heginbotham
thomasadixon 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant route.

andy dunn 29/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Billg 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

absolutely fantastic route - never hard but keeps going on big holds all the way

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 06/Aug/09 2nd β
with loundsy
feilx 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
switch 21/Sep/08 Solo rpt

Had been wanting to solo this all through the miserable Summer and at last: a crisp, sunny day.

morganator 24/Aug/08 Lead
with Neil McAdie
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead

Fantastic route

with A. Howarth
Ram MkiV 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
NeilGriffiths 27/Aug/07 -
with Simon Frost
frost ?/Aug/07 2nd
with N Griffiths
gonggashan ?/Nov/06 2nd
with Dan Perrott
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Chubbard 30/Sep/05 AltLd dog
with C Godfrey
pete johnson 02/Sep/05 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S

Climbed on a windy day with swiftly rising tide, no chalk as Tony had to borrow mine.. a bit gripping on the bottom as a fall would have had me trying to prussik out of the sea...great climb though..!

with Tony Payne
Brown 01/Aug/05 Lead O/S
haydng ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
LC ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Jack G
Andrew Barker ?/Jun/04 Lead dog

My first attempt at an E3. At least two falls and I ran out of quickdraws near the top but very glad I tried it.

Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 2nd rpt
pete johnson 28/Aug/00 Lead rpt
with Trevor Messiah, Enga Lokey
Hidden 31/Jul/00 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Sep/98 2nd O/S
nickdonohue 28/Aug/98 Lead

superb climbing; one of the best climbs / best bits of climbing I've done; my first E3

with Mark McCarthy
Dave Rumney 26/Aug/98 Lead
with Dennis Wong
Hidden 01/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead

way out there

with JC
morganator ?/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/97 Lead
phardman ??/1997 -
Steve Crowe 29/Aug/96 2nd rpt
with KM
andybirtwistle 14/Aug/96 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
pmot ??/1994 2nd
with Another Mr Lizard
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 19/Apr/92 -
with keefe
keefe 19/Apr/92 -
Andy Edgar ??/1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
Roget 06/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove 27/Mar/91 Lead dog
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Mar/91 2nd
with Dad
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ??/1991 Lead O/S

circa 1991 (seconded Karin 29Aug1996)

Rich Kirby ?/Jul/90 2nd

I was glad I hadn't led this one at the time...very pumpy. I didn't tell Will mind... the "apprentice was coming of age". A good lead.

Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/88 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Sep/88 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/88 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Nigel Coe ?/Aug/87 2nd dog

I used 1 rest point.

Hidden 08/Jul/87 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/87 2nd
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
Steve Lewis 20/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Hidden 19/Apr/87 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
andy gittins ??/1987 -
frank ramsay ??/1987 Lead
keefe 06/Sep/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Neil McA 19/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Jim Dockery
ukb & bmc shark ?/Jul/86 Lead dog
with Grin
Brian Wilderspin 04/Jun/86 2nd O/S
with Perric Crellin
Mike Owen 29/May/86 Lead O/S
with Eric Rooseberry
Hidden 18/Jul/85 2nd
AlexRenshaw 15/Jul/85 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Hidden 01/Sep/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Sep/82 AltLd
with Paul Clark
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
duncan ??/1981 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High 5b
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