Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
A classic. Crank up the awkward thin crack to a rest in a tiny groove. Head left across the wall on surprising holds. Pull over the roof and pedal up a wide and deceptively awkward crack. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Walton, Gary Gibson, Phil Wilson 1979.
Ticklists
Ultimate E1 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris Foxy | 3 May, 2021 |
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βeta: small but positive holds finishing crack is easy but less positive | βeta? | |
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βeta: small but positive holds finishing crack is easy but less positive |
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| Glen | 1 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: A very nice route, It does have a roof and wide crack, right at the top, but they are easy. | ||
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βeta: A very nice route, It does have a roof and wide crack, right at the top, but they are easy. |
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| Alex Mason | 4 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: this is quite possibly the best route ever! | βeta? | |
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βeta: this is quite possibly the best route ever! |
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| Chris the Tall | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, pretty steady after the first couple of moves. Maybe a long reach helped, but felt very easy for E1. Nice to see the Bicycle is still there ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, pretty steady after the first couple of moves. Maybe a long reach helped, but felt very easy for E1. Nice to see the Bicycle is still there ! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 10 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Bicycle - crank - geddit??? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bicycle - crank - geddit??? |
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| richardh | 9 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I don't remember BRM having a roof or a short, wide, awkard crack, nor does the photo. I think the comment refers to the description / route mismatch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I don't remember BRM having a roof or a short, wide, awkard crack, nor does the photo. I think the comment refers to the description / route mismatch. |
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| Chris Craggs | 14 May, 2004 |
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βeta: A joke that slipped through the net? | βeta? | |
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βeta: A joke that slipped through the net? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
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Dark Continent
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)