2 pitches.
A 2 pitch traverse of the obvious break. Start at the bottom of Leningrad.
1 - 6c. Hand traverse the break right either gaining, or eshewing the big ledge where the steep wall ends. Step down and around ribs before moving up to a belay ledge on The Staden Unconquerable, just beneath the impending flake.
2 - 6b. Step down and around the rib and hand traverse into the corner. Follow the well bolted break right, finishing up Restive Being, lowering off the strop and maillon.
Excellent climbing on P1. This is largely protected by bolts on the existing 'up routes'. We preplaced (and removed) a thread in Route 1, to protect getting to the first bolt. We also used a 3 medium wires and a Friend 2 on the traverse into the corner left of Invisible Limits, but everything else was in situ.
1 - 6c. Hand traverse the break right either gaining, or eshewing the big ledge where the steep wall ends. Step down and around ribs before moving up to a belay ledge on The Staden Unconquerable, just beneath the impending flake.
2 - 6b. Step down and around the rib and hand traverse into the corner. Follow the well bolted break right, finishing up Restive Being, lowering off the strop and maillon.
Excellent climbing on P1. This is largely protected by bolts on the existing 'up routes'. We preplaced (and removed) a thread in Route 1, to protect getting to the first bolt. We also used a 3 medium wires and a Friend 2 on the traverse into the corner left of Invisible Limits, but everything else was in situ.
Neil McAdie, Neil Foster (A/L), Chris Plant 12/Aug/2022.
Ticklists
Neil's New Routes , Peak Traverses
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Route of Interest
Enchanted Nightmare
Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)