UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Take the short crack in the flat face and the continuation above. Only spoilt by its proximity to Twisting Crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Beginner Peak Severe , Stanage Severe Challenge , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jimbo C 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really good. In no way spoilt by being close to Twisting Crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good. In no way spoilt by being close to Twisting Crack
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: lovely route offering cracks of all sizes, its on a slab so you can get a hands of rest pretty much anywhere
Show beta
βeta: lovely route offering cracks of all sizes, its on a slab so you can get a hands of rest pretty much anywhere
MNA123 6 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: soloed this last summer and from what i can remember it was alr8!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: soloed this last summer and from what i can remember it was alr8!
Si dH 9 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Id have said it was quite tough for severe if you use the thin crack at the top, as I did. Everyone else I saw climbing it avoided the need for hand jams at the top by taking the big wide fissure to the right, which made the top-out easy. Also quite tricky to start, but a very nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Id have said it was quite tough for severe if you use the thin crack at the top, as I did. Everyone else I saw climbing it avoided the need for hand jams at the top by taking the big wide fissure to the right, which made the top-out easy. Also quite tricky to start, but a very nice route.
Dale Berry 10 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good but not great, steady but no wher excessively difficult...and a Ot harder in the midday sun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good but not great, steady but no wher excessively difficult...and a Ot harder in the midday sun.

Logged Ascents

2052 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 156
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 146
Votes cast 142
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Long Climb

Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)

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